On January 7th 1999, a group of pilgrims set out on a journey to find "the other half of their soul."  This expression was coined by Dom.Bede Griffiths an English Benedictine monk who left behind twenty-five years of western monasticism to found a Hindu-Christian ashram in South India. The intention of our pilgrimage was to visit several famous temples and ancient sites while at the same time living in an atmosphere that facilitated the deepest level of inter-religious dialog and cultural cross-fertilization.  There is of course no better place for this than Shantivanam, a popular name for Bede's ashram that means, `forest of peace' in ancient Tamil, and a name that locals use for the Eucalyptus forest near which the ashram is situated. It is a gorgeous setting along the banks of the sacred river Cauvery also known as the Ganges of the South.

Shantivanam or Saccidananda Ashram which is the proper name for it, is an exquisitely constructed configuration of simple structures that immediately conjures up nostalgic images of the dwelling sites of India's ancient Vedic seers.  Unlike most Hindu ashrams that are built with cement and with the buildings lined up in a linear fashion, Saccidananda Ashram is an enchanting combination of quaint little brick and thatch huts organically positioned in the lush foliage typical of southern India.  Saccidananda is the name for the Holy Trinity in Hindu theology and signifies the triad of being, knowledge, and bliss.  Life at the ashram is expressed entirely in the Hindu culture although the community is well established and well placed in the Roman Catholic Church as a house of the Camaldolese Benedictines.  

We began our journey at the ancient site of the great Tamil kingdoms and visited many of the classic archetectural monuments located in the area that are carved entirely out of rock.  The Pallava's who ruled from c 350 to 880 were great patrons of art and their style of sculpture carried through into subsequent centuries, inspiring many temple artisans in India and spreading civilization in South East Asia.  After this excellent introduction to India we arrived at Shantivanam and participants were introduced to the life and profound symbolism of the place.  In addition, the group was taught the various chants and prayers used at the daily offices and at meal times so that they could participate fully in the monastic life of the community.

After a few days we began visiting various temples starting with the ancient Kadambar Amman temple dedicated to Shiva and his consort Parvati.  This rare temple features the powerful Navagrahangal, a configuration of stone dieties representing the planets.  The priest or pujari in charge of the temple conducted a special worship ceremony for us and it was quite amazing to hear his powerful chanting echoing all around the ancient stone walls and corridors.  

Later we made independent trips to other spots such as the historic Ranganatha temple associated with the God Vishnu and the famous temple of the fish-eyed goddess Meenakshi.  In all instances we were able to arrange for temple priests or local artists to guide us through the temples, explain the symbolism, and most of all give us access to the main deity dwelling in the inner sanctuary which in most places is barred to non-Hindus.  Given the present political situation in India with its surge of Hindu fundamentalism this was indeed a phenomenal grace. There were innumerable situations like this that made us aware of the presence of God guiding us throughout the pilgrimage.  The one and only place where we could not enter the sanctum sanctorum was the Meenakshi Temple.  This is one of the largest among the sacred temples of the South and therefore heavily policed.  Fortunately, exploring the temple's renowned thousand pillared hall which presently houses a museum of ancient Indian artifacts and our freedom to visit other shrines within the vast temple complex more than made up for this.

Another extraordinary place of interest was a yogini asham where a unique and rare group of women live a monastic life in accordance with the ancient Tantric tradition and perform some of the most exquisite rituals imaginable.  This is indeed a power spot in India, a physical location associated with the great sage Agasthya, a mystic and seer known as a rishi.  It is also famous for its association with the Emerald Lingam of Shiva.  The Tantric tradition worships Shiva and Shakti which are the male and female principles whose energy is symbolized by the male and female reproductive organs known as the lingam and yoni.  The universe is perceived as a fabric composed of the intricate interlacing of their manifestations. Pilgrims were made to understand the traditional vision in which a temple is approached and were taught customs used in the worship, the symbolism of local gestures, and the application of sacred powders on the body.  The cultural highlight of our trip was a special performance of classical music and dance presented by one of my music teachers and her troupe of professional artistes at the ashram itself.

The experience was so powerful that my wife and I have decided to do it again. This time it is going to be a chanting retreat and pilgrimage titled the "New Millennium Chant Explosion".  Participants will have the opportunity to study various kinds of chant such as the ancient Vedic that developed into powerful Tantric and culminated in the ecstatic Bhakti chant of contemporary India.  Sound is indeed the repository of consciousness and India more than any other culture in the world has maintained an uninterrupted oral tradition through chant.  This is a unique opportunity to experience sonic theophany, an age long experience in India which is undoubtedly the spiritual capital of the planet.  Resource materials will be available both before and after the tour to begin as well as continue this study on your own.

Russill Paul

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