THE WORLD'S OLDERST CITY: Varanasi is arguably the most ancient city in the world; it was ancient even when Buddha preached there in the 5th century BC. Mark Twain, who was there about a hundred years ago, is known to have remarked that Varanasi was “older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together”.

AT THE GHATS: We arrived in town at sunset and took a magical rickshaw ride through the ancient bazaar section. Our objective: to arrive at the ghats (steps) in time for the elaborate fire ceremony that takes places every night on the river bank. There are over 100 ghats in Varanasi most of them used for ritual bathing, several are used for cremating bodies.. While

FIRE CEREMONY: It was dark when we reached the river. Most of us were simply stunned that we were actually here, at  reputably the most spiritual landmark in the world. Quickly we bundled together in a boat and the oarsmen worked their way into the river till we were directly in front of the priests. There were five of them, lined up with all their paraphernalia, performing ritual after ritual in concert, while bells clanged incessantly. Oh, it was powerful.

BOATRIDE ON THE GANGES: Early next morning, before dawn broke, we gathered again on the ghats and set out for ride along the river. According to Hindu tradition, the Ganges cleanses all sins and guarantees instant release from the cycle of rebirths. Many elderly, ill people, and (sadhus) renunciates come here to breathe their last breath.

SITAR SERANADE: As the light began to filter through the sky, pilgrims arrived to bathe in the holy waters of the river. Each of us lit our own small oil lamp, placed it in a leaf and released it in the water, symbolic of our own soul’s release into the infinite waters of consciousness. An expert sitar player who accompanied us played a morning raga to inspire the act. Varanasi is noted for its rich musical heritage. Pandit Ravi Shankar was born and trained here.

SUN SALUTATION: As dawn broke, light flooded the river and bathed the walls of the city in its glow. Varanasi, also known as Kashi (the bright), is associated with Shiva who is himself the formless body of light that pervades our universe. As we watched the sun rise over the Ganges, we chanted the Rudram, Shiva’s most powerful body of ritualized mantras. Varanasi is equally renowned for its Sanskrit tradition.An extract of this mighty syllabic prayer is on the opening track of Shabda Yoga. Or download free Track#5 from our webpage Audiophiles.